I flew to New Orleans on Wednesday for Southern Decadence. I stayed with my buddies Will and Mauricio at their beautiful but still-in-need-of-work-post-Katrina home in the Tremé neighborhood, about a dozen blocks from the French Quarter. I bet you can see where this story is headed.
As regular readers of Hawleyblog may recall, I've been friends with Will since SD 2006,* when we hit it off at a pre-parade party. He lent me a hand with my chocolaty and nutty brownie costume, and we've been friends—and he's been calling me "Brownie"—ever since.
Katrina took off a good deal of the roof and damaged two exterior walls at the back of W&M's house. They'd been renting an apartment on the edge of the French Quarter while a neighbor stayed in the upstairs of their house. They moved back into their home in October 2007.
Will picked me up at the airport and then gave me a tour of their house. He had thoughtfully put out lots of reading material for me in the guest bedroom. (To read the "Generalissimo Nagin" article, click here.) On top of a tall dresser, he'd placed the fans** that we carried in last year's parade.
For dinner Wednesday night, we went to Lüke, a restaurant I'd read about in this article in the July issue of Food & Wine magazine. I tried a sip of Will's French 75 cocktail, which consists of cognac, lemon juice, and champagne. It was delicious. W&M both prefer red to white wine (as do I), so we shared a bottle of 2005 Louis Jadot Bourgogne Pinot Noir with our dinners.
I started with the Salad Lüke: bibb lettuce, cucumbers, carrots, and beets in a buttermilk dressing. For my entrée, I got Lousiana Pan-Fried Redfish Amandine. The waiter said it came with only haricot vert, so I got a side dish of spätzle. The redfish actually came with potatoes and carrots, too, so I didn't really need the spätzle, but they were good. And the fish was delicious, as was my peach cobbler for dessert.
On Thursday, I worked on my blog in the morning and then rode Will's bike to the Audubon Insectarium. It was fun—and educational. And I'll now pass some of that larnin' on to you!
I learned that insects represent more than 75 percent of known animal species. And as you may be able to read in the photo at left, the total weight of insects on the Earth is 50 times that of the humans.
I also learned that there's one species of leafcutter ant that's native to Louisiana and Texas. (I had thought they were only in South America.) Soldier leafcutter ants, which defend the colony, have mandibles that are sharp enough to cut leather. I'm pretty sure the display about the ants at the Insectarium said that leafcutter ants are the only known animals other than humans that grow their own food. But this Wikipedia article says ambrosia beetles and termites also purposefully grow fungus to eat.
Ooh, and I also found out that what we here in the U.S. call the German cockroach is known as the Russian roach in Germany and the Polish roach in Russia. Hah! It most likely arrived in Europe from Southeast Asia.
I'll post many more pix from the Insectarium in an all-photo post later on.
Before I hopped back on the bike, I called Will to let him know I was headed back to the house. He said he had more work to do for his gardening clients than he'd anticipated, so I needn't hurry back. We were going to go to a small farmers market not far from his home that afternoon.
When I got back to the house, I read a post about Southern Decadence on Joe. My. God. "Numerous JMG readers have reported that their hotels are telling them that an evacuation of New Orleans may begin long before Gustav's landfall is known," he wrote. "You can still get there, but you may end up getting evacuated far from the city and out of reach of your return flight. Things look slightly more dire than they did yesterday." I read the comments, and they, too, gave me the distinct impression I needed to arrange to get out of NOLA before Tuesday, the day I was scheduled to fly home.
I called Expedia, whose customer service rep told me to call Continental directly since I'd already taken the first part of my round trip. The woman from Continental I spoke with couldn't have been nicer, though she initially had bad news. I'd asked about flights out to Newark both the next day (I was perhaps panicking a little) and Saturday. There were two seats available the next day, but there'd be an $800-plus charge for changing my flight to a day so far in advance of my scheduled departure date. She then initially told me I could expect the same thing for Saturday flights, but once she got deeper into the process, she said, No, actually it would be only a $150 charge. She had two flights available: one early in the morning about 6-ish and a 2:50 p.m. one. I gratefully snagged a seat on the later one since I didn't want to have to get up so early or make Will get up so early to haul me to the airport.
I've been wondering what I would have done if the $800 additional charge had also applied to the Saturday flights. Would I have taken a wait-and-see attitude in the hope that the hurricane would have changed course the next day or that I'd be able to get a ticket at a more-reasonable cost, assuming there were still seats available? I'm generally not a wait-and-see kind of guy, but the exorbitant price hike might have given me enough pause that I would have put off my decision by a day. And it might have cost me my escape route. So I'm very glad it didn't come to that.
When Will got home, I told him what I'd done, and he was understanding. After he washed up, we went to the market, which he'd warned me in advance was pretty small, so I shouldn't get too excited about it.
ARROHK,*** I loooove farmers markets. This one was, indeed, somewhat small: only about 15 one-table stands. We headed first to the seafood stand to get some lump crab meat. Days before, Will had suggested making crab cakes while I was down, and I told him I'd be up for that because I'd enjoyed crab cakes before even though I'm not a fan of shellfish in general. (Above are some truly jumbo shrimp that were on display at the same stand.)
We also bought a couple of tomatoes and, from a rather talkative woman, a container of cheese grits. The Alabama peaches looked wonderful, but Will already had some peaches in the fridge that we had talked about making a crisp with, though we quite understandably never got around to doing that.
We then went to a nearby wine store and tried a flight of wines—two whites, a rosé, and a red—none of which were must-buys. I instead bought a bottle of the 2005 Trapiche Broquel Malbec (Will is a big fan of malbecs, too) to have with dinner, and that turned out to have been a good choice, though a white would have been a more "correct" choice, of course.
Next, we went to the supermarket to get some crackers that would be broken up to serve as a base to hold the crab cakes together. The store was busy, and people were stocking up for and talking about the coming storm.
Our homemade dinner turned out to be fantastic, and Will commented on the fact that I was gladly eating a meal that contained both cheese and shellfish! I really enjoyed the broiled crab cakes, which Will had spiced with dried mustard and Old Bay Seasoning. The grits were also delicious (we'd tried a sample at the market, so we knew they would be good), and we had the tomatoes on the side, with some basil from the garden and a drizzle of olive oil. For dessert, we had a nice flan that Will had made before I arrived.
Will was too tired to go out that night, so Mauricio drove the two of us into the Quarter, and we first hit Good Friends, at my request. After a while, we split up, and I hung out mostly at Cafe Lafitte in Exile. Mauricio had said he'd be heading to the newest bar in the Quarter, the 700 Club, which is owned by a former neighbor of W&M's. I ended up there eventually, but I left after a couple of minutes because the bartender was ignoring me and the crowd was mostly a bunch of twinks. I took a cab home not long afterward.
*That was back when I wasn't very sophisticated about sizing and placing photographs on my stupid blog. Not that I'm incredibly sophisticated now. :-)
**Last year's SD post was sadly photoless because Ralph, my boyfriend for the weekend whom I'd met at my hotel's pool, said he'd e-mail me photos he took. After Decadence, I kept bugging him with e-mails, but he only sent me a handful, with the excuse that he was very busy at work, and I finally gave up. Since I was anticipating getting his photos, I got lazy during SD and didn't take that many photos with my iPhone or camera, and the ones I did weren't all that great. Sigh.
***As regular readers of Hawleyblog know.